Simply Read, Rifle, CO
photo by Tobin Sanson

Sunday, November 6, 2011

prAna Blog; Shop Handmade, Shop Local


Jen Vennon: Shop Handmade, Shop Local

With the holiday season upon us it’s time to start thinking about gifts for all the special people in your life. This year, I’m challenging myself to do all of my shopping at either locally owned shops or from handmade merchants.
Here are a few of my favorites for the people on my list:
Mountain Love
Mountain Love is owned by my dear friend, and fellow teacher, Kelly Philbin. Kelly makes beautiful interchangeable magnetic necklaces. Each necklace comes with an engraved pendant and three magnetic pieces for you to switch and change on a whim. You can find Mountain Love at craft fairs all over the Western Slope and the Front Range of Colorado, or on her website at http://www.mymountainlove.com/
ash & ore
“ash & ore is a one woman venture founded in 2009, specializing in handmade leather goods that combines simple functional designs with re-purposed materials.
Nestled at the base of the Rockies, Amee happily dwells and creates in a 100 year old bungalow with her boyfriend and their fuzzy, four legged friend, Roobix.”
Amee Hinklee is an ultra creative artist and a member of the climbing community. She can be found at craft shows and fairs around Colorado. Keep up with her at http://ashandoregoods.blogspot.com/ or on ash & ore’s Facebook page!
MuKee
“MuKee products are handmade from reclaimed skateboards” by Derek Keenan. Products include necklaces, earrings, and belt buckles; all for a reasonable price. Check out Mukee’s shop at http://www.etsy.com/shop/mukee or follow him on Facebook at facebook.com/mukeedesign
Two+Two
Two+Two, handmade in Carbondale CO, makes reusable, washable, bags in a variety of sizes and designs. They are the perfect gift for that practical eco-minded loved one. I use and reuse these bags daily for my lunch and snack. They are also perfect for children! The website is coming soon at http://www.twoplustwoshop.com/ or you can follow them on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/pages/TwoTwo/159365727469098?sk=wall
Child’s Own Studio
This is the perfect gift for the little artist in your life. This talented woman can turn your child’s drawings into a unique stuffed animal!
“Child’s Own Studio started with a simple project, to make a recognizable comfort toy for a 4 year old boy based on his drawing. It was an idea that launched a home-based craft business. Since then, Child’s Own Studio has custom made over 200 personal softies, each one as unique as the child who drew it.”
Check out http://www.childsown.com/index.html for great pictures and more information on this unique product.
Unfortunately Child’s Own Studio is not taking any more orders for the Holiday season, but she’ll start up again in January.
Those are five of my favorite handmade merchants. Let’s hear about your favorites?

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Stockboy's Revenge


Saturday was one of those days I can only describe as un-motivating.  It was raining and cold as we packed the car. It dumped for the entire 1 hour drive to Rifle Mountain Park. At one point I began laughing and questioned Andrew about why we were still driving. I’d  suggested throwing in the towel before we even made it to the highway. A day at the Glenwood Hot Springs was sounding perfect to me. But we kept driving.

The canyon was pretty much empty when we arrived. Everything looked a little darker than it should and the black rock was glistening as the water poured down the walls. I had no hope of actually climbing and was just hoping I could convince everyone that a diving board session at the pool would be much more fun.

The car thermometer read 48 degrees as we parked the car. In the back of my mind I couldn’t help but think about a day last year when the thermometer read the exact same thing. It was damp and gross then too. That was the day I sent the 7 PM Show. Maybe, just maybe, I could pull it off again. Maybe. . . but probably not!

Three bolts into my third warm-up I saw a flash and heard the crash of thunder. I believe I even let out a loud whoop! This was just ridiculous, but I was kind of having fun. That was until Andrew screamed up at me. “I’m getting soaked down here, you gotta come down!” I looked down to see him huddled as far under the wall as possible and getting nailed by sideways hail that was penetrating deep into the caves. I came down and finding my jackets soaked decided to give up for the day. I had one good go on my project for the weekend; I didn’t want to waste it on such a crappy day. I’d fallen at the crux countless times and even punted once above there. I just needed to do it right one time and Sunday’s forecast looked really good.

Once again I attempted to get the boys to pack it up and call it a day. This was just dumb, and now my coats were wet!

They wouldn’t leave. I was stuck in the canyon. I could either climb or just sit around pouting all day. Honestly the latter sounded fine to me. Adam Avery was with us and he had a cooler filled with beer, not climbing wouldn’t be too bad. But the thought of last years send kept creeping into my mind.

I decided to walk down to the Bauhaus and check to condition of Stockboy’s Revenge. If it was wet the decision would be made and I’d call it a day. To my great surprise it was dry and actually looked kind of bright. Several of my friends were in there trying to stay warm and get some pitches in. Chris Kalous called me over, saying he had a present for me, and handed me a roll of zebra striped duck tape. I love colored duck tape, maybe this would be just the luck I needed to send my route!

I decided to try warming up again and hoped my hands would feel warm. Going numb on this project wasn’t going to work, it was just too long and there was nowhere to get the warmth back in my hands.

After two more warm ups my hands were warm and I was ready to give it a go. So it was back down to the Bauhaus to face my fate. I’d either succeed or fail and I was willing to give my all to find out which it would be.

There’s a routine or pattern to getting ready to climb on a project. For me, it’s knee pads, duck tape, tie in, shoes on, and go.

My first attempt was a nightmare. I fell low on the first set of hard moves after knee-barring my finger and getting stuck. ARG!

I came down, pulled the rope, and tied back in. Andrew said I had fire in my eyes. I’ll say that I was mad. Really mad.

Back up I headed, squeaking through the bottom, but only just barely. I rested as long as I could bear before heading out the roof. A series of easier moves and various knee bars led me into the crux of the route.

Big move to a pinch. Throw the right foot above my head and put in the shallow knee bar. Grad the seam and sink the knee bar in deeper. This one has to be perfect, too shallow and it’ll slide, too deep and I’ll be too low on the next hold. Stand up and clip. Sink down and re-position the foot. Stand tall, all at once, and grad the gastone. Generate in the arms, stand tall, and switch the knee bar. Foot to knee and knee to foot. Suck up, stay tight, and grab the side pull. Get it high, get it wide.

Now go, go, go, get the feet up as quickly as possible.

For me getting the feet up was the crux of this route. Once they’re up it’s just a quick move to a sloppy gastone and then roll up to the undercligs. Get into the double knee bar rest and calm down.

I’d climbed to this point once before and then punted. Literally falling out of a knee bar. I couldn’t believe it!

On Saturday I stayed in that rest for what seemed like forever. I wasn’t going until I was sure. All that ran through my mind in the rest was “one move at a time, each move perfect”. Again and again I thought that. Stay in the present, finish this route.

The rest of the climb was a blur. I climbed it well, but was more tired than I’d ever been. I’d always skipped the third to last bolt and had played around with skipping the one above that as well. After an awful fall earlier in the summer I’d decided that skipping both was a bad idea, even if clipping the the second was hard. On the send my feet cut when I hit the clip hold. I threw them back on, but knew that there was no way I could clip and pull off the next moves. Without hesitation I threw for the jug on the lip and quickly moved through the next few moves to the next clipping stance. It wasn’t until I had it clipped that I let myself remember the last time I’d tried to skip that draw and nearly broke my ankle after a 60 foot whipper sent me crashing into the wall. None of that matter by then, I was done. Just a few more moves on big holds and I’d clip the chains!

I have to say that I’m very psyched to have sent this route. It’s uniquely amazing and exemplifies everything I love about Rifle. Strange, cryptic, specific, and above all fun.

Big thanks to Andy Raether for bolting this route and all of my patient friends who had to deal with my various and often-unpredictable emotions throughout the process.

photo by Andrew Bisharat
setting up the big crux knee bar

photo by Andrew Bisharat
moving through the crux


Monday, September 5, 2011

Huge

Earlier this summer I sent the route Huge, 5.13d. It's a long route in the Bauhaus, Rifle, CO. Characterized by two distinct cruxes and beautiful limestone, Huge is a great route.

I'd tried the route a few times in the past but was never able to figure out how to do this one REALLY big (for me) move early on the route. This summer however I found a way to stick the move. . . at least inconsistently.  Luckily the actual crux didn't feel so bad and the higher crux had a massive rest just before it, so I knew that if I got there I'd be able to pull it off.  

Finally one day I stuck the opening hard move and climbed to the top! There was no doubt in my mind that I could finish the route. I just had to stay in the moment and focus on one move at a time, and it worked!

As I write this, I'm trying to conjure up the feeling of calmness and absolute confidence I had the day I stuck that opening hard move and sent Huge. I'll need that confidence and calmness today as I head back to Rifle, to face my current project.

Here are some photos from a working session on Huge, taken by Dave Clifford.


photo (c) Dave Clifford
www.davidcliffordphotography.com

photo (c) Dave Clifford


photo (c) Dave Clifford
www.davidcliffordphotography.com


photo (c) Dave Clifford
www.davidcliffordphotography.com

photo (c) Dave Clifford
www.davidcliffordphotography.com


Sunday, August 21, 2011

Composting How To

One of my personal goals this year is to get a compost started for my classroom and my home. Here's a handy "How To" that I found on the prAna blog.


Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Chicks and Ducklings



I was just looking over my past blog entries and realized that I never posted pics of this year's flock.

This was the third year that I attempted to hatch chick with my Kindergarten class. After last year's dreaded half chicken incident, I was a bit nervous, especially since I would be adding duck eggs into the mix.

Luckily this year's hatch was a success. Only full chickens and ducks! When all was said and done we had 4 chicks (Batman, Robin, Lila, and something else) and 5 ducklings (Mario, Mac, Vincent, Uncle Quaker, Katilina).

I can't express how wonderful of an experience this is for the children. Something they'll remember for the rest of their lives.


The night before hatching day.
I was a bit excited to test out my costume, which I wore most of the week.

Our first two chicks
Chicken hatching video!
video


Lila
We put this photo in the chicken trough to keep them company.

Duck eggs!

We had given up hope on this one and turned off the incubator.
3 hours later, he made a go at it.

Duckling breaking through the shell.

video



Mac

The ducklings first swim.


video

Thursday, August 11, 2011

Rock and Ice issue 197

Rock and Ice issue 197 will be coming your way shortly.

Check out the new cover.

Dumpster BBQ, Rifle, CO
photo by Duane Raleigh

Monday, August 8, 2011

"The Show"

I've been going to the Outdoor Retailer Summer Trade Show for a few years now. The idea is for outdoor companies to get together and showoff all of their new products. But for me, OR is a time to chat with old and new friends, check-in with my companies, and otherwise have a blast.

The highlights this year included the premier of "The Scene", a movie by Chuck Fryberger, dinner with a prestigious crew of climbers, lunch with my dear friends Big H (Greg Houston) and Dario Ventura, peddling around the city on a borrowed cruiser bike, attempting to win a paddle board, dancing at the battle of the bands, and catching up with Chris Sharma and Daila Ojeda.


Saturday night dinner

Amy Pickering signing with the BD band.
These guys rocked!

Daila Ojeda and myself
photo by Andrew Bisharat

Mobbing Salt Lake City
Photo copyright of Keith Ladzinski

Monday, August 1, 2011

Carbondale Mountain Fair

This past weekend was the Carbondale Mountain Fair. Think booths filled with hand made crafts and art, New Belgium beer, copious amounts of tie-dye and flowing skirts, live music, fair food, and tons of people.

I've always attended Mountain Fair as an observer, but this year I let my friend Kelly Philbin of Mountain Love talk me into bringing my journals and origami earrings to the fair to sell.

Needless to say it was a fun, if hot, weekend in the park.

I swear I was jumping just before this picture was taken.
 I don't actually this this is a "cool" pose!
photo by Mountain Love







I've plenty of journals and earrings left over. Let me know if you'd like me to send them your way!

Friday, July 15, 2011

No Spain, No Gain

The newest Rock and Ice, issue 196, is on new stands now! In it you will find Andrew Bisharat's story of our trip to Spain this spring break, along with beautiful photos by Keith Ladzinski.

It's pretty amazing to have a trip captured forever by two of the most talented people I know in their respective crafts.

Enjoy!

Daila Ojeda
photo by Keith Ladzinski

photo copyright of Keith Ladzinski


Friday, July 8, 2011

Dumpster BBQ

A few years back I managed to send Dumpster BBQ, 5.13c, Rifle, CO. Dumpster is a notoriously sandbagged route, even at 13c. This is to say it's very hard. It's the kind of climb where you count yourself lucky to squeak out a send and then never get on again, thus never having to face that fact that the send may have been a fluke.

I was reminded of the difficulty of this climb when Duane Raleigh, good friend and publisher of Rock and Ice Magazine, decided that Dumpster BBQ got good light and would shoot well. "Jen's done this before right?" he says to Andrew, my boyfriend.  "Let's shoot it this week."

So, last week I found myself back on Dumpster BBQ. But this time without my shield of well worked beta and a lack of outside pressure to do well. What resulted was a very good and unexpected workout for me, one which I'm already grateful for, and a cool little video.

Click here to watch


Climber's note: It's always strange to watch yourself in a video. I think I look pretty bad in this one. I blame it entirely on the pollen! I suffer from intense seasonal allergies.

Thursday, June 30, 2011

Beach Vacation

No summer vacation is complete without a visit to the beach!

The week after wrapping up the school year and packing up the classroom I headed to Ft. Lauderdale, Florida with my dear friend Kelly Philbin. Kelly teaches 1st grade at my school and seems to get my sense of humor. She's kind, endearing, and a ton of fun. She didn't even mind when I invited myself along on her summer trip to visit her father.

We spent a long weekend riding around in Kelly's dad's blue mustang convertible, plucking Jimmy Choo sunglasses out of the Atlantic, drinking a variety of vodka drinks, laying in the sun, swimming in the sea, and riding stand up paddle boards.

It was a glorious week and a perfect start to the summer.









Mary Shedd!




Kelly paddle boarding in the Atlantic

I love paddle boards. If anyone hears of a cheap one, please let me know!